Someone eats onions than to process. Onion diseases, their treatment and prevention

Recipes for infusions for pest control

Good for aphids, suckers, codling moths. Spider mites are sensitive to it. Pass a pound of unpeeled (possibly sprouted) onions through a meat grinder and pour warm water in the evening to make 5-7 liters of the mixture. In the morning, strain it, stir in 2 tbsp. spoons of green potash soap and spray plantings at the rate of 1 liter per 2 mg vegetable ridge or per bush, 2 liters per tree.

Repeat after 5 days. And for prevention, we process it 2 times a month. It is doubtful that last year you removed it without forgetting a single head. Bunches of cheerful greenery stick out here and there. For food, they are already coarsened, but it's a pity to throw them away. So sabers (in this case, feathers) are drawn!

Shaking off the ground and rinsing, pick up a bunch so that it gets into the palm of your hand, crumble smaller (all together, and tops and roots) and pour 5 liters for a day warm water.Then drain the liquid, add an ampoule or two of glucose for sticking and, without diluting, treat aphids, caterpillars, mites. This infusion has a good (without glucose) effect on mushroom ailments of our vegetables.

Phytophthora does not cure, but confidently restrains. calendula flowers.Good not only to rinse your teeth. Infusion (a glass of flowers per 1 liter of boiling water) repels the nematode well - in strawberries and potatoes.

Nightshade tops (potato, tomato). Good broad spectrum product. Aphids (except legume), caterpillars of various butterflies, codling moth, almost all sawflies, moths are affected.

We prepare a decoction: boil 3 kg of raw materials in a bucket of water for 1.5 hours over low heat. Cool, filter, you get eight liters. Three on a grater half a piece of laundry soap, dissolve it in a decoction - and fight!

It is better to spray the plantings, as always, in the morning or in the evening, evenly moistening the plants. How to get past it, mentioning nightshade? Once very widely used, it is now forgotten. It is necessary to use tobacco skillfully, and then it is no less effective than karbofos!

Dust is usually used. Take half a kilo of it and fill it with a bucket of cold water. It costs 2 days. We filter, dilute in half, add a third of the planed piece of laundry soap and an excellent poison is ready!

And dust can also be used in a mixture with ash and lime 1: 1: 1 from cruciferous fleas and slugs, spraying a glass of such dust on 1.5-2 m2 every 3 days where aggressors are rampant. Alcohol (or vodka) infusion of tobacco (and even cigarette butts) - good remedy fight against black garden ants. The withering branches of elderberry among plantings also work.

And in potato combs, marigolds scare away the wireworm. They are relatives of culture, and therefore, as weapons of mass destruction of gnawing and sucking, they act in approximately the same way. Feverfew is stronger.

Pour 2 kg of crushed fresh plants with a bucket of water and boil for half an hour after two days of infusion. Cool, strain. Spray the garden in the evening, and you will be convinced that the product is no worse than Intavir.

To consolidate the effect, treat the garden again after 5 days. Wormwood common. A sprig of it on a pouring fork of cabbage is a barrier for whites. A decoction (at the rate of 1 volume of raw materials per 1 volume of water) is very good for caterpillars on currants and gooseberries.

Protection of strawberries and victoria from strawberry-raspberry weevil

Even firelight penetrates! Grass pour boiling water, bring to a boil and leave until the next day. Then, as usual, we strain, sprinkle. You can dilute, but not more than 1:3.

Cocktails have always been in fashion, and we will give you a recipe that will find its consumer, such as aphids, mites, suckers, codling moths, and especially small free-living caterpillars such as moths. Needles of pine or spruce.

This is an excellent insecticidal mulch for planting strawberries. And even fungicidal - there will be no gray rot on ripening berries! Dandelion leaf, odorless chamomile and yarrow tops (1: 1: 1). Pour the volume of the mixture with three volumes of very warm water (up to 45 °), insist for three hours, strain and immediately use.

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - with your own hands"

Diseases and pests of onions and garlic

To grow healthy onions and garlic, you need to know what diseases, onion and garlic pests can threaten vegetables that are so necessary for health and tasty. In this article, we have collected information on how to deal with the main pests and how to save the crop. It must be said that these plants, so useful and tasty, often suffer from stem nematodes.

The nematode is a small worm that likes to lay its eggs in the roots of plants. This leads to the fact that the onion heads begin to crack, and the garlic begins to disintegrate into teeth.

Plant leaves are deformed. Onion processing before planting. To disinfect the onion sets from the nematode, before planting, the planting material must be soaked for two days in an aqueous salt solution at the rate of 3 tbsp. spoons in a bucket of water.

Onion disease control

In the photo, the onion fly strikes the onion so.

An onion fly is considered an equally dangerous pest of garlic and onions. The larvae of this insect penetrate the bulb itself through the bottom or at the very base of the leaves, which usually leads to the death of the bulbs. Usually, the raid of onion flies begins in the spring, and it coincides with the cherry blossoms.

20 days after the eggs are laid, the larvae hatch from them, which go deep into the ground and pupate there. Young flies fly out to replace them, and everything repeats all over again.

  • You can save the onion by timely scaring off the pests with tobacco dust mixed with ash, taken in equal proportions. This powder (tobacco dust with ash) must be pollinated (treated) between the rows of plants.
  • In addition, it is advisable to sow carrots next to the onions, since the phytoncides that are secreted by carrots can scare away the onion fly. In turn, onion phytoncides prevent the appearance of a carrot fly.

If possible, plant marigolds side by side. An attentive gardener and gardener can avoid the next misfortune in the struggle for the harvest.

Downy mildew on onions and garlic

This disease of vegetables is especially relevant in the rainy season. Blurry spots begin to appear on the leaves of plants, which begin to gradually increase in size, forming a gray coating, which is fungal spores.

These spores are able to scatter with gusts of wind in different directions, infecting other plants. Methods for processing, protecting onions and garlic from downy mildew.

  • In order to prevent diseases, it is necessary to warm up the seed stock before sowing at high temperatures. So onion sets are heated in the spring at 45 degrees Celsius for half a day. In the villages, I warm up the onions on the stove (meaning the upper chambers of the village stove). You can spray the plants with whey diluted in water (how to do it below). Enhanced feeding of plants with super phosphate fertilizers.

Spraying onions and cabbage summer 2014

How to treat onions from pests: folk methods for downy mildew

  • Not bad helps the use of Bordeaux liquid. True, in this case, it is necessary to spray the plants at least 3 weeks before harvesting. Can be sprayed with serum

Everyone in the house has dairy products, do not pour out sour milk, fermented milk whey from kefir. Lactic acid bacteria have a negative effect on the powdery mildew pathogen and at the same time do not harm plants.

Recipe for onion diseases - powdery mildew: spraying agent is made from sour-milk whey separated from dairy products. We take cold water and dilute its serum in a ratio of 1:8 -1 to 10. Stir until a homogeneous state is obtained.

Pour the prepared solution into spray containers. Now in the morning or in the evening you can process the plants.

Harvest and storage of onions and garlic

To prevent onion cervical rot, you must try to remove the vegetable immediately after it ripens, without delaying this matter. After the neck begins to dry out and the feathers fade, you have a signal - you need to start harvesting.

After the onions and garlic are dug out, they are dried in the wind and sun for 3-4 days, usually leaving them right on the ridges. Of course, it is better to choose a sunny day in August for harvesting.

Gently remove the earth from the garlic, shaking it off with your hands, you must try not to damage the scales (the quality of storage and disease resistance depend on them). It is necessary to dry these medicinal vegetable crops in the sun, you can move them closer to the house and spread the onions and garlic on an oilcloth.

The remaining leaves should be cut off. Cut the onion so that the tail of the vegetable remains about 3 cm.

Store harvested onions and garlic< надо в картонных коробках или корзинах в прохладном, но сухом помещении. Также сплетают их в " косы" и подвешивают в кладовых, при этом уберегая от холода и влаги.

Learn more about the growing popularity, very useful daikon vegetable

Marigolds - protection of plants from pests

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"" insect pest of onions and garlic, 1 mm long, yellow, wingless green larvae. Onion thrips harms not only onions and garlic, but also other vegetable and flower crops, sucking the juice from the leaves and flowers of plants.

Perfectly endure winter under the remains of plants or simply in the upper layer of the earth. The females of this pest lay their eggs directly under the skin of the leaves. 4-5 days after laying eggs, larvae appear from them.

As measures to combat this pest of onions and garlic, the processing of the bulbs in hot (45-47 degrees) water before planting, and subsequent sharp cooling in cold water for 1-2 minutes, brings the greatest effect. Also against onion thrips, spraying with the Iskra preparation (10 g per 10 liters of water) can be applied.

Use 1 liter per 10 sq. meters of beds. "" the onion and garlic pest has a rather large size (up to 1 cm), gray color. In appearance, the pest resembles an ordinary fly. The larvae are light grey.

The activity of the onion fly is manifested in the spring in mid-May. At this time, dandelion and lilac usually bloom. The pest can lay its eggs on the soil or between the feathers of onions and garlic.

After about 5-6 days, insect larvae hatch from the eggs and immediately penetrate the inside of the onion head, most often from the bottom of the bulb. Damaged plants begin to lag behind in development, the leaves turn yellow, and the bulb itself softens and rots.

There are several effective ways to deal with this pest. When the height of the leaves of the plants reaches a height of 7-8 cm, the plants are sprayed for the first time with a solution of the Fufanon preparation (1 ampoule of 10 ml per 10 liters of water).

In general, during the summer they are sprayed several times against each generation of this insect. You can determine the next term for laying eggs of the next generation by intensifying the flights of these pests over your onion beds.

You can also apply the treatment of onion and garlic beds with deterrent solutions, for example: Mix a glass of wood ash with 1 tea. lies. tobacco dust and 1 tsp. ground pepper. With the resulting mixture, it is necessary to powder the beds, and then loosen the soil to a depth of 3 cm.

Against the larvae of the pest, you can sprinkle the soil of the bed with garlic and onions with a mixture of the Bazudin preparation with river sand. (30 g per 0.5 l of sand). "Onion root mite" causes a lot of trouble for vegetable growers, harming not only onions and garlic, but also other bulbous plants. In bulbs affected by this pest, the upper part becomes rotten, and the bottom eventually falls off along with the roots.

The female tick itself is small in size: from 0.5 to 1 mm. She lays 300-359 eggs. Under favorable conditions (temperature 25-28 degrees), the next generation of pests develops after 10 days.

The direct harm to the bulbs is caused by the larvae penetrating the bulb through the root bottom. In order to prevent the appearance of this pest of bulbous plants, first of all, you need to dig a bed to a depth of 1.5 bayonet spades, carefully removing all decaying residues.

Dry the collected bulbs in the sun. Store onions and garlic in ventilated and disinfected areas in advance. A few days before planting, treat the soil with Colloidal Sulfur (40 g per 10 liters of water).

Secondary processing should be done 18-20 days before harvesting. "Onion moth" this pest prefers warm and dry weather. Damaged onion leaves turn yellow, starting at the tops and dry out quickly.

The onion moth itself is a small butterfly that begins to fly from mid-May, laying eggs on the bases of leaves or in the soil near plants. Active flight of the onion moth is observed in July, at night. The emerging caterpillars feed on plant leaves.

Butterflies that appeared in early October remain for wintering. They tolerate winter well in a variety of secluded places or heaps of plant debris.

An effective way to combat this pest of onions and garlic is to spray the plants with the preparation "", especially during periods of active moth summer. To prepare a solution in 10 liters of water, dilute 10 mg. Consumption: 1 liter per 10 sq.m. Read also: Carrot pests

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Diseases and pests of onions

Good day, friends. From this article you will find out what are onion diseases and pests and how to deal with them.

One of the most dangerous onion pests is the onion fly, the larvae of which cause the tips of the leaves to turn white and the entire plant to lighten. Therefore, if these signs are observed after spring frosts, then this is not freezing of the plant, but damage to the bulb by this pest.

The first year of vegetable pests occurs in the spring, during the cherry blossom period, and the second - simultaneously with the white butterfly, that is, somewhere in mid-July. Planting onions (the fly is not a pest of garlic) is easiest to protect with any non-woven material, such as spunbond.

To do this, simply cover them during pest summer. During the second summer, you need to rake the soil from the bulbs and water the plantings with a salt solution.

However, it is worth noting that the onion fly is dangerous only in wet summers, therefore, in dry summers, watering with a salt solution is not necessary, since the fly larva, deposited near the bulb on the soil, dries up and dies. feather, and then lays its larva inside. It is very clearly visible how it eats away the flesh of the leaf.

And you can also clearly see the place of the incision, or rather the "seams" that appeared as a result. All external preparations in this case are not suitable for the fight, since the pest is inside the leaf. Absorbent drugs are needed.

Among these drugs, the safest are Agravertin and Fitoverm. In addition, you can eat onions as early as 48 hours after treatment with these drugs.

But it is very important that there is no rain within 3-4 hours from the moment of spraying, since it is during this time that the drug is absorbed by the plant. In case of rain, sprayed plantings can be covered with a film.

As for onion diseases, the most common is downy mildew. It appears on the leaves as a grayish coating. Then there are rusty spots that rot.

To combat this disease, use the biopreparations "Phyto - plus" or "Fitosporin", spraying which helps very well. Onions can be eaten in just 2 days after spraying. In addition, any copper-containing preparations are effective.

This, for example, copper oxychloride, copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid. But after spraying with such preparations, onions should not be eaten for 3 weeks. In the southern regions, onions can become rusty. This disease appears on the leaves as yellow streaks.

To fight, use the same drugs as against the previous disease. An equally common disease is onion neck rot. The defeat of this disease most often occurs already during storage.

The causative agent of the disease penetrates into the "thick" neck of the onion, which did not have time to close. This happens most often during rainy summers.

It does not make sense to store such bulbs, because they will rot anyway, so after harvesting it is better to use them immediately for winter harvesting. Even during storage, onions are often affected by smut.

This disease appears between the onion plates in the form of black strokes. If you strip the onion naked before storing it, then among the discarded scales there will be almost all pathogens of fungal diseases, since it is between the scales that the spores of the fungus remain.

Even in the southern regions, onions and garlic can affect the bottom rot. This disease is usually provoked by an onion fly that damages the bulb. As a result, it softens and begins to rot during storage.

Therefore, before drying, it is recommended to spray diseased bulbs with Fitosporin. Unfortunately, onions also have incurable viral diseases, which include jaundice, mosaic and verticile wilt. In this case, the plants must be destroyed by burning them.

In addition, within 4 - 6 years you can not plant onions in this place. That's probably all onion diseases and pests. As you can see, there are a lot of them, but it is not difficult to deal with them.

It is enough to monitor the condition of the plantings and spray them with the indicated preparations in time. I wish you success and high yields! See you...

Onion fly, or onion flower girl

Basic information. The onion fly is a dangerous pest of onions. It slightly damages onions, leeks, shallots, very weakly damages garlic and. It also damages bulbous flower crops, especially. Causes significant damage to the salad.

Significant harmfulness is noted during the years of mass flight of flies during the period of growth and the beginning of onion development. Onions sown with seeds to obtain sets are especially affected by damage. larvae with dense stems crawl from dead plants to healthy ones, often overcoming a distance of more than 0.5 m. When thinning is not necessary and the risk of infection is minimized, the harmfulness is lower.

Onion plants affected by neck rot or stem nematode are especially severely damaged by the larvae of the onion fly Delia antiqua and the sprout fly Delia platura.

In the middle lane it gives 2 generations, in the northwestern regions - usually only one, but with a warm autumn and the second. In the southern regions, the development of the third generation is possible.

Signs of damage. Seedlings in the cotyledon or first leaf phase wither in groups; inside the bulbs, the passages of the larvae - at the base of the cotyledons and leaves, the larvae themselves. In older plants, the leaves in the neck of the bulb are damaged; outside from the side of the bottom or neck is a small hole. In the growth phase, the leaves in the neck of the bulb are damaged from the inside or the bulb is damaged, as a result of which the leaves wither. The leaves turn yellow, the bulb rots; the plant gradually dies.

Regardless of the type of damage, onion sets die when only one or two onion fly larvae are introduced into the plant. The same is observed on turnip plants if their growth point is damaged.

Description of the pest. Adults are ash grey; body length 6-8 mm. Legs black wings slightly yellowish. The male has a dark stripe along the abdomen; hind tibiae with row of short thick setae.

The eggs are white, elongated, about 1.2 mm. Larvae are worm-like, off-white; rounded on the ventral and dorsal sides, narrowed towards the anterior end; body length up to 10 mm; jaws hooked. On the posterior segment there are two round dark-colored plates with breathing holes. The pupae are in a yellowish-brown pseudococoon.


The spring flight of onion flies coincides with the flowering time of dandelion or lilac. Reproductive maturation occurs with additional nectar feeding during the week.

On crops of black onion, oviposition is already noted from the phase of 2-3 true leaves. Females place eggs on onion shoots, between leaves or under soil lumps near plants in groups of 5-20 eggs. The laying period lasts up to 1.5 months.

Egg development normally occurs at 25-80% soil moisture. Embryogenesis lasts about 6 days at a temperature of 13...14°C, about 4.5 days at 17...22°C, or from 6 to 3 days in the range of 23...29°C.

The larvae penetrate into the flesh of the bulbs, gnawing through the base of the leaves in the neck, less often from the side of the bottom. Individuals hatched from the same clutch stick together, eating away the common cavity. They can migrate to neighboring plants. Duration of development of larvae is 2-3 weeks. Larvae pupate near damaged plants in the soil.

The second generation of onion flies appears in July. Pupae overwinter in areas where onions were grown at a depth of 10-20 cm. Often, immature larvae can be brought on bulbs to storage facilities where they pupate.

Fighting onion fly. The drugs are used:

  • Fly-eater at the rate of 50 g/10 m2 by applying to the soil surface when planting bulbs;
  • Medvetoks at a rate of 30 g / 10 m2 by applying to the soil surface when planting bulbs with simultaneous loosening;
  • Ant at a rate of 30 g / 10 m2 by applying to the beds immediately after sowing,
  • Zemlin at a rate of 30 g / 10 m2 by applying to the soil surface when planting bulbs with simultaneous loosening.
  • Tobacco dust or Tabazol is also used by dusting during the growing season at a rate of 3 g per 1 sq.m.

Onion hoverfly, or onion root beetle

Basic information. Appears occasionally, but causes damage to onions and bulbous flower crops. It also damages root crops of carrots and beets, potato tubers. Hoverflies, unlike the onion fly D. antiqua, are harmful in the second half of the growing season.

Together with the onion hoverfly, the tuberculate hoverfly is found, which differs from the first in that the males have a small tubercle at the base of the hind femora.

Signs of damage. Damaged plants are stunted; the ends of the leaves turn yellow and wither. The bulbs soften, and when they rot, they acquire a specific smell. With group feeding, the inner part of the bulb is destroyed, turning into a black rotting mass.

Description of the pest. Medium-sized stocky flies, female body length 5-7 mm, male 5-6 mm. In males, the apex of the abdomen is slightly swollen, in females it is flat. The color of the body is bronze-greenish, on the back there are two stripes of light gray. Antennae are black. The abdomen is metallic green, blue or black throughout. The femurs of the hind legs are thickened. The legs are black or black-brown.

Females lay up to 100 eggs on already weakened plants, often damaged by an onion fly or a stem nematode. Egg laying is carried out in small groups on bulbs.

shallot aphid

Basic information. Dangerous pest of forcing onions; hurts other bows as well. Can damage strawberries. The scientific name is derived from the main food plant, shallots.

The resettlement of aphids is carried out under the influence of the anthropogenic factor. The pest enters the greenhouses with planting material, on the bulbs and on the “underrun”, which is planted along with new batches of onions. In greenhouses, aphids cause the greatest harm to forcing onions in the autumn-winter and early spring period.

The shallot aphid is a non-full-cycle species. In the greenhouse, the aphid is experiencing an unfavorable period on the weeds and in the bulbs between the scales. In addition to greenhouses, it hibernates and also harms in vegetable stores. After planting onions in greenhouses, aphids begin to feed on succulent scales and leaf bases. There are usually no winged females. The main reserve of the pest is the underdog onion, which did not have time to form a marketable feather. It is from him that aphids move to new plantings. Aphids are known to carry some viruses.

Signs of damage. The shallot aphid is found on scaly leaves under the outer involucre of the bulb and on young leaves. Affected plants are stunted, the leaves are twisted and wither. The feather going to the greenery is polluted with honeydew and molting skins.

Description of the pest. The body is ovoid, brown or red-brown. Larvae are greenish-brown or dull yellow. The eyes are blackish brown. Antennal tubercles well developed, converging anteriorly. Antennae longer than body. 4th-5th segments and spitz of 6th antennal segment black. The remaining segments have body color. The tubules are cylindrical, light, tapering towards the apex, but ending in a small darkened funnel. The thickness of the tubules is 8 times less than their length.

Protection measures. Pesticide treatment of onions on a feather is prohibited. The use of biological agents is difficult and economically unprofitable. Therefore, agrotechnical methods play a special role in pest control.

  • soaking the bulbs in hot water before planting;
  • storage and cultivation of “underdone” separate from the main massif;
  • removal of weeds and maintenance work between rotations.
  • it is possible to use infusions from the tops of insecticidal plants.

Thrips tobacco, or onion

Basic information. Tobacco thrips severely damages onions, weaker -. Garlic suffers little from thrips damage. The pest damages both the feather and the bulbs themselves during storage. By the time the onions are harvested, most of the thrips migrate to other cultivated plants and to weeds, where adults feed before wintering. Part of the thrips gets under dry onion scales, and thus the pest is brought into the storage. The quality of commercial onions, as well as onion sets, is greatly reduced.

Distributed in the southern and middle lane in the open field, to the north it is found as a pest of greenhouse crops.

Signs of damage. Fleshy scales become rough, later they dry out. Whitish-silvery or whitish stripes and spots appear on green leaves, among which small dark dots are noticeable - dried excrement. The quality of the onion per feather is reduced - heavily damaged leaves become completely whitish in color, often bend, turn yellow, dry out.

Due to the suspension of growth, the bulb turns out to be small. Inflorescences of onion testicles, heavily populated with thrips, produce feeble seeds of low germination or dry out. Onion damage by thrips, together with solar exposure, is very dangerous for plants.

Description of the pest. Imago is elongated with narrow wings folded along the body. Body length 1.0-1.3 mm. The general color is yellowish. The eyes are red; antennae are usually yellow. The forewings are slightly darker than the hindwings, with a fringe of fine hairs. Antennae 7-segmented, i.e. their lead is 1-segmented; maxillary palpi 3-segmented.

The egg is kidney-shaped, whitish, 0.25-0.26 mm long and 0.15 mm wide. The larval stage has 2 instars. The hatched whitish or light yellow larva soon starts feeding on the plant. As they grow older, the greenish-yellow intestine begins to shine through in the abdomen. The body length of the second instar larva is 0.8-0.9 mm. They do not feed, usually found in the soil.

The imago of tobacco thrips overwinters in all kinds of plant debris in greenhouses and in the greenhouse area in the upper layer of the substrate, as well as under dry scales of bulbs in vegetable stores.

The female fecundity is about 100 eggs. She places them one by one under the skin in the tissue of the leaf. The larvae hatch after 3-6 days. The development of one generation in the southern regions takes 14-30 days; further north development is slower.

Protection measures. Effectively spraying plantings during the growing season with Aktara, VDG preparations - 2 times per season. Karate Zeon, ISS - 2 times per season, fluid consumption 200-300 l / ha. Waiting period 25 days.

The main thing in the fight against the onion pest is to carry out two treatments close in time with an interval of 5-7 days. This is due to the fact that some individuals at the stage of eggs and nymphs are highly resistant to drugs or inaccessible to them.


Basic information. It affects onions, onions, chives, garlic. It also feeds on, and other plants from the Amaryllis family. Distributed everywhere, but harmful in foci.

The onion rattle is often confused with the one that has a black head and legs, not red. In the middle lane, the leaf beetle develops in 1 generation, in the southern regions - in 2 generations.

Signs of damage. Onion rattle beetles gnaw through holes in onion leaves, as a result of which the leaves break. The larvae eat holes in the leaves of the onion and in the arrows, gnaw the pedicels of the flowers. Adult larvae usually penetrate inside the tubular leaf.

Description of the pest. Bright red beetles, 6-8 mm long. The legs are red, the antennae and the underside of the body, except for the tip of the abdomen, are black. The eggs are elongated, smooth, orange in color, 1 mm long. The larva is thick, dirty-white in color, with black dots on the sides, six-legged. The head, thoracic shield and legs are black. The larvae cover themselves with their own excrement, resulting in a brownish slimy mass.

Basic information. Onion cracker damages onions, leeks and garlic during the growing season. Harmfulness is especially great on weakened, stunted plants. Distributed in the European part of Russia and the Far East.

Tick ​​four-legged onion, or tulip, or garlic

Basic information. A widespread pest - known from the Moscow region to the Krasnodar Territory. It harms onions, garlic, and many ornamental crops of the Amaryllis family. The mite inflicts maximum damage during the period: weak plants with ugly or dwarf shoots and flowers develop from damaged bulbs. The garlic mite is a carrier of the Onion mosaic virus. The virus is acquired by the prelarvae of the mite in the process of feeding on the cells of the bulb for 15 minutes. After molting, it remains in the body of females for 9 days. The virus is not found in eggs.

The primary spread of the tick occurs with planting material; secondary - with the help of wind and insects.

Signs of damage. Green or yellow spots appear on the fleshy onion scales. During winter storage, the damaged scales dry out, which makes the spots more visible. During the onion growing season, the tops of the leaves turn yellow. In spring, garlic mites migrate to the leaves and flower-bearing shoots, which become chlorotic with a whitish color. Seedlings damaged by the mite are deformed, often twisted in a loop-like manner; plants lag behind in development and growth.

Description of the pest. The female is about 0.2 mm long, the body is strongly elongated, whitish in color, with 2 pairs of legs located in front of the body. The shield is semicircular, without a visor. Skin with annular grooves. Dorsal semirings average 83-87, ventral half rings up to 76. Genital shield with longitudinal ribbing. On the tibiae of the legs of the first pair there is one strong seta. Larvae outwardly differ from adults in their smaller size and fewer semirings on a relatively short body.

The garlic mite hibernates in all phases of development between the scales in the bulbs. Most individuals concentrate in the neck area, wearing it down. Under conditions of cold storage, the development of mites slows down. Under favorable conditions in the storage, mites begin to reproduce, and when the temperature rises to 18 ... 25 ° C, they settle on neighboring bulbs.

Females lay 1 egg per day, but can lay up to 25 eggs over their entire life span. At a temperature of 9 ° C, eggs develop for 3-5 days. Under favorable conditions, the duration of generation is 9-10 days. In dry conditions, migratory ticks die, but in a humid environment they can live without food for up to 80 days.


onion mite

The most intensive accumulation on the onion turnip is observed during the storage period. Bulb damage usually starts at the bottom, but mites also enter bulbs damaged by insects, nematodes and molds. Through the eroded and rotten mass of the bottom, ticks settle inside the bulbs between the fleshy scales. Damaged bulbs rot.

Onions contain a lot of vitamins, phytoncides and essential oils. The presence of useful substances allows it to be used as a prophylactic against diseases. But such a feature does not save the culture itself from the invasion of green onion pests, and the fight against them sometimes lasts a very, very long time.

  • change in the color of the sheets or the appearance of spots on them;
  • drying out of feathers;
  • the formation of white, gray or black plaque on the bulbs.

For pest control, not only chemicals are used, but also folk remedies.

stem nematode

The onion nematode is a small thread-like worm that feeds on plant sap. It is a dangerous insect that can destroy all plantings. The onion stem nematode can survive the winter in the soil, the root itself or seeds. Begins to act actively in a humid climate. Penetrates the plant through feathers or bottom.

In any phase of development, these worms eat onions. Oviposition is produced in plant tissues.

Symptoms of infection at various stages of crop vegetation:

  • young plants wither, the affected areas become thin;
  • more developed bushes may look healthy outwardly, sometimes white spots may form, while the inside of the roots will be loose, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200binfection the scales are thinner and covered with whitish and brownish spots.

The affected bulb often cracks, the inner scales protrude outward. At high humidity, the bushes rot, at low humidity, they dry out.

It is very difficult to destroy the worms on the bow completely. Strong agents will be harmful to the culture itself. Therefore, the main way to fight, allowing you to get rid of pests in the garden, is prevention:

  • change the place of cultivation annually;
  • subject the seed material to careful rejection twice: during the harvesting period and after storage;
  • before planting, it is good to loosen the bed, add a small amount of contact poisons.

For the worm, temperatures from 40 ° C are detrimental, therefore it is advisable to soak the seeds in hot water (about 55 ° C) for at least a third of an hour. The culture will not suffer, but the nematode will surely die.

onion moth

A small butterfly that has survived the winter on plant debris or on the walls of the premises begins to lay eggs at the beginning of summer. This is done by the onion moth on the underside of the leaf, root crop or flower arrow.

Soon the larvae appear, which cause the main harm, eating away the flesh of the foliage, gnawing out the bulbs and inflorescences. They pupate on plant debris and weeds or in the soil, soon giving life to a new generation of butterflies.

The pest affects the plant throughout its development, because it can give 2-3 generations per season.

Treatment is carried out with the help of such chemicals:

  1. Spark - processed in the summer and at the stage of the appearance of larvae.
  2. Summer resident and Metaphos. The drugs are used strictly according to the instructions.

Onion pest control is also carried out with the help of folk remedies. To do this, use the following infusions:

  • ash: pour boiling water into 0.3 kg of ash, insist, decant, stir in 40 g of liquid soap;
  • garlic: chop the teeth in a meat grinder, mix with water in equal proportions, close tightly and leave for about a week in a warm room. For treatment, add 70 g of the product to 10 liters of water;
  • tobacco: in a container with 0.2 kg of tobacco and 1 tbsp. l. Soap pour hot water, after cooling strain. Then you can treat the plants and the soil, using a liter of the mixture per 1 m2;
  • pepper: place a kilogram of red capsicum cut into 2 parts in a bucket of boiling water, boil, drain the cooled liquid and pour into storage containers. Before processing, 130 g is diluted in 10 liters of water along with soap (40 g).

Processing with infusions is carried out repeatedly after planting the bulbs with an interval of a week.

Infusions of wormwood or calendula will help to defeat the moth (they have a repellent smell). Also for this purpose, the method of mulching with peat, humus or crushed spruce branches is used.

Tobacco thrips

Onion thrips damages the aboveground and underground parts of plants. You can determine the invasion of pests by the following signs:

  • juicy scales of the bulb begin to fade, gradually dry out;
  • the affected leaves are covered with white stripes, black dots are visible - insect feces;
  • growth stops, seeds become unfit for further sowing;
  • severely affected feathers turn pale, twisted and dry.

The thrips larva has 2 stages of development: during the first it actively feeds, while you can see a yellowish intestine on its belly, with the onset of the second stage it hides in the ground or hides in the dried onion peel.

It is easy to recognize a lesion, it is much more difficult to deal with thrips, since not all means can have a detrimental effect on it. The following drugs have proven themselves:

  1. VDG, Aktara.
  2. ISS, Karate Zeon - 200-300 liters per 1 ha.

It is necessary to treat with solutions twice with an interval of a week. Such a small gap is due to the high resistance of larvae and eggs to the components of the preparations, as well as the fact that the used solution could not touch them.

onion hoverfly

The insect chooses weakened plants, laying eggs on or near root crops in the ground. The emerging larvae penetrate inside and thus feed. Because of this, the onion hoverfly has received the name "root beetle".

After about a month, the caterpillars go into the soil and pupate. Insects hibernate inside the root crop.

Damage caused by onion hoverfly larvae negatively affects such characteristics as:

  • growth;
  • feather development: turn yellow and fade;
  • fruit condition: bulbs soften and then rot.

Pest control measures involve the introduction into the ground during planting of such drugs as:

  1. Fly-eater (50 g per 10 m2).
  2. Medvetoks, Zemoin, Ant (30 g per 10 m2).

Also, during the development period, the bushes are pollinated with tobacco dust in the amount of 3 g per 1 m2.

onion root mite

Most often, it settles in weakened and damaged plants, affecting all their areas during the growing or storage period. The onion root mite penetrates through the bottom. It is difficult to notice it because of the very small size (no more than 1 mm).

You can determine the defeat of the tick by the following signs on the bulb:

  • juicy scales dry up;
  • the bottom becomes thinner at the edges, falls off as insects spread;
  • roots are not formed (after storage).

The pest moves with the remains of plants, soil and inventory. Therefore, the main method of dealing with it is preventive measures:

  • thorough cleaning of the storage and its fumigation (FAS preparations, Climate);
  • compliance with the rules of harvesting and preparation for storage;
  • treatment of bulbs with Aktellik's solution, beds - BI-58 (before planting).

Onion secretive proboscis (weevil)

Light larvae with a brownish head corrode longitudinal passages in the pulp of feathers, translucent through the skin. When the period of their development ends, they move to the ground, where, having passed the stage of pupation, they transform into black bugs.

Adult pests also eat the flesh of the leaves. For the winter they hide under the remaining plants, earthen clods and stones, and in the spring (when the air warms up to + 8 ° C) they wake up. You can effectively deal with these insects with the help of systematic loosening of the soil., during which all possible wintering places for the weevil will be broken.

onion fly

Wakes up in late spring, lays eggs in June. From them, larvae are formed that penetrate into the bulbs and gnaw them. Damage can be recognized by the following signs:

  • damaged bulbs rot, emit an unpleasant odor;
  • the bush grows slowly;
  • feathers wither, turn yellow and dry out.

Pest actions last about a month, then the larvae burrow into the ground and transform into pupae. Of these, another generation is soon hatched (in July).

For the winter, the larvae penetrate the soil to a depth of about 6 cm, where they wait for spring in the form of pupae. Control measures are similar to actions with a hoverfly.

Prevention

So that onion pests do not spoil the entire crop, prevention should be carried out, the essence of which is as follows:

  1. Change landing site every year.
  2. Sow at the right time.
  3. Dig up beds in autumn and winter to destroy possible pupae and larvae.
  4. Before planting, disinfect the soil with a solution of copper sulfate.
  5. Observe the optimal distance between individual bushes during cultivation.
  6. Timely remove weeds, plant residues.
  7. During the period of germination and ejection of the feather, treat with biological agents.
  8. Planting material is carefully checked before disembarkation.
  9. Timely identify the affected bushes and destroy them.

Of course, pests can be so small that it is very difficult to identify them. The plants themselves will tell you if there is a problem. You should be very careful with green helpers in order to save most of the future crop.

Not everyone succeeds in growing a good onion, and it's not just the weather or improper care. Often the cause of a poor harvest is insects that spoil the turnip, green feather. Therefore, for everyone, the topic of onion pests and the fight against them, about the most effective means(including from folk recipes).

The enemy must be known by sight

Incredibly, but burning and bitter onion is a very tasty vegetable for a number of insects. But this is not pleasant for gardeners, since voracious pests can destroy the entire crop. In addition to pests, you need to know the onion diseases and their treatment, since it is the diseased plants that are the first to be affected by insects.

Among the most malicious and dangerous insects is the onion fly.

onion fly

The lilac, cherry and dandelion blossomed, which means that the time has come for the mass flight of the onion fly. This insect is found in all regions of Russia and the damage it causes to the bow is serious. Inconspicuous ash-gray flies rush to the beds with onions, where in the aisles, near the newly emerging sprouts, they lay their eggs. About a week passes and the fly larvae that have appeared begin to develop plants, there are young sprouts, penetrating into the base to the nascent bulb.

ON A NOTE!

Black onion crops are especially quickly affected by pests, where the distances between seedlings are minimal.

Young plants after being damaged by larvae begin to fade immediately, in older ones the bulb and feather are damaged. The tubular leaves turn yellow, the bulb softens, rots, a sharp unpleasant smell of rot is felt near such beds (see photo). If the bulb is pulled out of the soil, white worms can be seen swarming inside the pulp. The plant may die even if it is damaged by only one or two larvae, but a mass attack is usually observed, since the period of laying eggs by flies lasts up to one and a half months.

After about three weeks, the larvae themselves penetrate the soil and pupate. During one summer season, usually two, and under favorable conditions (in the south, where the summer is longer), there can even be three generations of onion flies.

stem nematode

From about mid-July onions can be attacked by a very dangerous pest - a stem nematode. This is a small worm that infects the leaves of the plant, and then the bulbs. Nematode eels cause great harm to the plantings of many plants, including not only onions, but also garlic, radishes, cucumbers, and bulbous flowers.

Inside the nematode penetrates through the feather of the onion, it can also enter the bulb through the bottom. It is very difficult to get it out, especially since the pest can fall into a state of suspended animation and exist like that for a number of years.

How do you know if an onion is affected by a nematode? The leaves of plants begin to change color, lighten, then curl. Characteristic swellings may appear on the surface, and then the pen fades and dries. The bulbs of such plants begin to rot.

The nematode hibernates on the remains of vegetation; it can also enter vegetable stores through the affected bulbs.

onion weevil


This small bug got its name for the presence of a proboscis bent down, hence its middle name - a secretive proboscis. Onions are damaged by weevil larvae laid by females in early spring. Yellow larvae are very voracious, and if proper measures are not taken, they can destroy the entire green feather of plants.

On one onion bush, up to 15 larvae can hatch from laid eggs, which eat the inner juicy pulp of onion feathers. Because of this, the leaves of the plants begin to turn yellow (especially the tops), curl up, and dry out. There are characteristic whitish stripes on the feather. Further, the grown larvae penetrate through the bulbs into the soil, where they pupate.

Adult beetles also feed on the juice of the pulp of the leaves, piercing their surface with their proboscis. The weevil causes especially great damage to plants that have been sown with nigella.

onion moth

If it is a hot and dry summer, then the onion moth can annoy the onion. Not very noticeable, with brown wings, butterflies lay eggs on the feathers of the onion, flower arrow or on the bulb. The laying time is in June. A week later, very voracious worms appear that eat away the leaves of the onion from the inside, leaving the thin skin completely intact. Also, moth larvae penetrate flower stalks, bulbs, turnip neck, making whole labyrinths of moves.

After that, the caterpillars pupate and after about 14-16 days the butterflies reappear. The cycle begins anew, and for the entire summer season, this pest can give two or three, or even four generations.

The leaves of damaged plants turn yellow, wither, dry out, the bulbs rot.

onion hoverfly


A rather large bronze-green fly, the hoverfly, poses a great danger to onions. Its larvae - worms of gray color with green spots - feed on the pulp of a juicy turnip.

Usually, hoverfly females lay eggs in small clusters, choosing plants that are weak, sick, and also infected with other pests. An onion that is damaged by a hoverfly begins to rot the bulbs, the process of decomposition quickly proceeds and the vegetable dies.

The larvae of a harmful insect can overwinter excellently on turnips that have remained in the ground in the beds, and they are also successfully stored in storages and pantries with onions. After wintering, the larvae turn into pupae, then, with the advent of summer days, new flies fly out.

ON A NOTE!

This pest is very dangerous, as outwardly the plants can look quite healthy. The feathers are fed for some time at the expense of the stocks of the bulb, and only in the second half of summer can one find a completely rotten turnip.

During the summer season, usually two generations of hoverflies develop.

root mite


Many bulbous plants, including the beloved onion, can be threatened by a tiny onion mite. For his settlement, he chooses weakened plants, and then gradually switches to healthy strong onions.

The optimal conditions for the life of an onion mite are heat and high humidity. Fertile insect females lay up to 350 eggs in one clutch, from which larvae then appear. Ticks feed on the inner scales of the turnip, sucking out all the juices and turning the flesh of the bulb into dust.

The root mite devours the onion, while the leaves begin to fade, become covered with whitish spots, and curl. During a decrease in temperature, the life of an insect seems to freeze, and as soon as it gets warmer, reproduction continues again.

Insects quickly move to healthy plants, damaging plantings on a large scale.

thrips


These tiny insects, which are no more than 1.5 mm long, are difficult to notice, so gardeners often find out that the onion is seriously damaged too late.

Harm is caused by small larvae, which in the first period of their existence eat the pulp of leaves and bulbs. How do you know that thrips have appeared on onion plants? First, whitish stripes become visible on the feathers of the onion. Secondly, the larvae leave numerous feces in the form of clusters of black dots on the leaf. Further, the onions themselves are deformed, the scales of which begin to dry.

Thrips larvae hibernate between dry scales of bulbs laid in storage. At the same time, the quality of the turnip decreases, and the planting material becomes unsuitable for growing in the spring.

Aphid


Various types of aphids affect many garden crops, onions in this case are no exception. Basically, the aphid settles on shallots, hence its name - shallot, but the onion also falls under distribution.

The pest is found on young onion leaves, and also sneaks under the outer scales of the turnip. The feather of such a bow begins to lag behind in growth, bend, fade. On the surface of the tubular leaves, aphid skins remain in large numbers (due to molting), as well as honeydew. Such a pen should not be eaten.

Aphids cause the greatest harm to young plants, as well as onions, which are planted in greenhouses for forcing feathers. The insect hibernates either in greenhouses or in vegetable stores.

How to effectively deal with pests

Every gardener should remember a simple rule: you must try to prevent pests from appearing on onion plantings, since it is very difficult to deal with many types of insects.

Today there are a large number of drugs, using which you can destroy all pests. But in this case it will be impossible to talk about the ecological cleanliness of vegetables, especially since it will be impossible to use a green feather for cutting in the summer.

That is why we will start with agrotechnical control measures to prevent the appearance of dangerous insects.

Agrotechnical control measures

  • The return of onion plantings to their original place should be no earlier than in 3-4 years.
  • Careful preparation of the ridges in the fall: they must be dug deep, destroy all plant debris.
  • Need and spring digging beds.

  • Preparation of seed material for planting: heating, disinfection in a solution of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate.
  • Onions should be planted early, as soon as the soil warms up. This allows the plants to get stronger by the period of mass flight of many pests.
  • Carrying out weeding, loosening of row-spacings, timely cleaning of diseased, damaged plants.
  • In general, it is necessary to be very careful in choosing planting material, as well as to acquire varieties and hybrids of onions that are resistant to diseases.

The rules are very simple, but gardeners do not always follow them. Therefore, it is advisable to follow all recommendations.

Pest Control Measures

To combat a very insidious onion fly, many different drugs and folk remedies are used.

  • Pollination of plants, row spacing with tobacco dust, wood ash, hot pepper. Consumption - up to 3 grams per square meter.

  • Dusting onions with Tabazol (according to instructions).
  • Soaking onion sets before planting in saline solution (for two to three hours). After this, the bulbs must be washed and then planted.
  • Watering plants with saline solution (150 grams of salt per bucket of cold water): the first time when the onion reaches a height of 5-6 cm; the second time can be repeated after two weeks.
  • Sowing next to the beds of onion carrots, as well as marigolds, calendula.
  • Treatment of bulbs before planting with birch tar. Composition: a small amount of clay is diluted with water, 3-4 tablespoons of birch tar are added, the bottom of the onions is gently dipped into the mash before planting.
  • Of the chemicals, Zemoin, Mukhoed, Medvetoks will help get rid of the fly.

Chemicals are used for mass damage to onions by pests. In doing so, be sure to follow the instructions.

How to deal with the stem nematode


This pest is very difficult to remove, so the best way to fight is to follow the rules of agricultural technology. Seed material must be carefully selected, deeply loosen the soil on the ridges and observe crop rotation. Nematode worms do not like high temperatures, so it is recommended to warm up the sowing (onions are soaked in water + 50-55ºC for about 10 minutes) and only then planted in grooves.

We destroy the root mite

In order to prevent the appearance of a harmful mite, it is recommended to treat the sevok before planting with a special Aktellik preparation.

Mandatory is the processing of storages and pantries before laying the onion for storage, high-quality drying of the turnip, and careful trimming of the dried feather.

We fight with onion moth


In the fight against this insect that damages onion plantings, the following means will be effective:

  • infusions of garlic, wood ash, tobacco leaves;
  • infusions of calendula, wormwood;
  • infusions with red pepper.

Watering plants with urea helps well, as well as mulching the soil.

ON A NOTE!

Mulching is a technique that allows you to prevent the appearance of pests on onions, as well as maintain the desired level of moisture in the soil.

Onion hoverfly: what to do?

Compared to the onion fly, the hoverfly does not affect onion beds as often, but the damage from it is significant. And the measures to combat this insect are exactly the same as with the onion fly. Also, do not forget about crop rotation, preparation of planting material.

We destroy the onion weevil


The secretive hunter does not like strongly smelling plants, so processing onions with infusions of tansy, mustard or celandine will be an effective technique. To process the plants, it is necessary to dry, grind and sprinkle the beds with onions with dry powder. You can also make a decoction of herbs, and then cool and sprinkle onions. Dusting the beds with ordinary ash, as well as tobacco dust, also helps a lot.

ON A NOTE!

In order to destroy the pupae of the secretive trunk, it is necessary to regularly loosen the soil between the plants, and also to remove all plant debris from the beds in a timely manner.

Gardeners must keep their plot in perfect order, not allowing piles of tops and plant residues to remain on it before winter after harvesting.

Aphid control


  • treatment with infusion of ash, garlic, onion peel (it is advisable to add a little soap shavings to the infusions so that the compositions better adhere to the surface of the leaves);
  • spraying plants with infusions of tansy, wormwood.

It is obligatory to weed the beds, you can also warm up the sevok for twenty minutes before planting in hot water.

This technique will destroy the aphid larvae hiding under the scales.

Thrips control measures


In order for thrips not to appear in the garden, it is necessary to observe crop rotation, carefully remove all the remains of plants and roots in the fall, and dig deep ridges. It is advisable to treat garden equipment with disinfectant solutions before the start of the season.

Loosening the beds is effective, and if the lesions with thrips are insignificant, you can use herbal infusions: mustard, wormwood, celandine. Dusting the onion with ash and hot pepper also helps, but only if there are few pests.

If there are massive lesions of onion plantings, you will have to use "chemistry", namely Aktar or VDH preparations.

Onion pests are very diverse, so you need to be attentive to plantings, noticing all changes in the state of plants. This will allow you to recognize the danger in time and take action. Prevention is also an important measure, since in this case the risk of lesions is minimized.

Onion pests and the fight against them - this is exactly the first question that puzzles many gardeners who have found small insects on the onion bed. How to determine the type of pest, and most importantly, how to get rid of it as soon as possible?

Before you start fighting insects that attacked the onion garden, you need to correctly determine the type of pest. It is on whether the identification was made correctly that the processing efficiency depends. What insects love onions?

onion fly

It affects the culture in the first period of growth. During the mass summer, insects lay their eggs between the rows of onions. Under favorable conditions, after a week, worms are born that do not destroy green sprouts, but climb inside the bulbs and begin to eat them. The danger of this insect lies in the fact that only a couple of larvae can kill a plant in a short time. Depending on the location of the region, 2–3 generations of flies are activated during the growing season.

root mite

Another of the small insects that infect onions during the growing season and storage. Pests breed most actively in warm rainy summers. Female root mites lay about 350 eggs, from which larvae emerge. Adults and young individuals eat juicy scales, as a result of which the turnip turns into dust. Wilted twisting stems, the surface of which is covered with white spots, testify to the attack of unexpected guests.

Onion stem nematode

At the last stage of growth, onions are affected by small scale insects. First, the nematode feeds on juicy feathers, and then on the turnips themselves. In plants attacked by a nematode, the feathers lighten and deform. Stems covered with swollen areas quickly wither and die. At the time of the appearance of external signs, the bulb is already badly damaged.

onion weevil

A distinctive feature of the pest is a long, slightly bent nose. The greatest damage is done to the onion by the larvae hatched from the eggs, which the insect females laid with the advent of spring. If the landing is not immediately processed, the larvae quickly climb inside the feathers and eat them. A sign that the insects have begun vigorous activity is oblong white spots on the surface of the feathers. The bugs are also quite voracious, as they suck the juice from the greenery with the help of their trunk.

onion hoverfly

A large bronze-green fly lays eggs, which hatch into gray-green larvae that feed on the flesh of the turnip. Most often, the hoverfly lays its eggs on already diseased plants. The danger of the pest lies in the fact that it is quite difficult to identify it - when there are no signs on the upper part, the lower part is already quite spoiled. If nothing is done, the onion hoverfly will overwinter and harm crops next season.

Onion (tobacco) thrips

Small insects attack young sprouts shortly after they appear on the surface. From the eggs laid on the tops of the feathers, yellow worms hatch. In a matter of days, affected plants become covered with silvery spots and small black dots. As a result of the activity of pests, the onion turns yellow and dries.

How to prevent the appearance of pests?

Since the fight against voracious insects does not always end successfully, it is better to try to avoid the appearance of pests on your site. What manipulations will help to ward off insects from the garden with onions? List:

  1. Compliance with the rules of crop rotation. Like most cultivated plants, onions can be planted in the same place only 3-4 years after the first planting.
  2. Digging the soil. On the eve of winter, the garden bed is carefully cleaned and dug up. In the spring, re-digging is carried out.
  3. Planting carrots. Since the leaves of this plant produce phytoncides, the aroma of which is not to the liking of many insects, the culture is placed next to the onion bed.
  4. Seed processing. To destroy microorganisms on the surface of the bulbs, the planting material is soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate, and then dried and heated at a temperature of + 30–+40 ⁰С or water is lowered for 10 minutes, the temperature of which is +50–+55 ⁰С.
  5. spraying. In order to scare away pests, onions are treated with wormwood infusion.
  6. Care. The bed should be regularly weeded and loosened. Manipulations will not only activate the growth of turnips, but will also help identify diseased or insect-damaged plants.
  7. Variety selection. Thanks to the work of breeders, a wide range of varieties is available for sale, the vast majority of which are resistant to bacteria. Onion diseases and their treatment take a lot of time from the gardener, thereby distracting from other equally serious problems.
  8. Early boarding. Onions are planted immediately after the soil dries out from melt water. The sooner the planting is made, the more the plants will get stronger by the time the pests multiply.

As you can see, the rules of prevention are very simple, so even a person who first began to grow onions can fulfill them. However, even despite all these actions, insects often attack the culture. What to do in this case?

How to deal with pests?

Unfortunately, there is no single scheme for onion pest control. The list of manipulations directly depends on the type of insect. So, an infusion of herbs with a pungent odor will help get rid of onion flies and onion hoverflies: garlic, wormwood, tobacco, hot red pepper. Top dressing with urea will help scare away pests. For prevention purposes, bulbous beds are covered with mulching material.

If the bed was attacked by weevils, infusions of plants with a strong aroma are used as weapons. The insect will definitely not covet the onion, from which the smell of celandine, mustard or tansy emanates. In addition to spraying the plant, you can generously sprinkle with chopped dry herbs. The beds are dusted with wood ash and tobacco leaf powder.

All the same “fragrant” mixtures will help get rid of onion thrips. The most effective means are prepared as follows:

  • 1 kg of wormwood is placed in a saucepan and 3 liters of water are poured, after which the mixture is boiled for 20 minutes and cooled. Spray onions 2 times with an interval of 7 days.
  • In a glass of water, stir 2 g of mustard powder. The mixture is infused for 48 hours. To prepare the working solution, the volume of the concentrate is adjusted to 1 liter.

To prevent the appearance of a pest, organic residues are carefully removed before winter. The tools necessary for planting are treated with a disinfectant. In case of severe infection, onions are treated with chemicals such as VDH, Aktara.

To destroy the onion moth and a number of other insects, the following means are widely used:

  1. 300 g of wood ash is poured with boiled water, after which it is left to infuse. For better adhesion, 40 g of soap are added to the cooled filtered mixture.
  2. 100 g of calendula seeds are poured into 5 liters of water and left to infuse for two days. The resulting infusion is treated with onions affected by moths.
  3. Finely chopped garlic is poured in a ratio of 1: 1 with water and infused for 14 days in a closed jar. To prepare the working mixture for 10 liters of water, add 70 g of concentrate.
  4. 0.5 kg of red hot pepper is cut in half, poured into a 5-liter saucepan and boiled. The cooled broth is filtered. Onions are sprayed with a solution of 10 liters of water, 130 g of decoction, 40 g of soap.
  5. 200 g of tobacco is poured with boiling water and left to infuse. After the mixture has cooled, it is filtered. Spray plants and soil. Consumption per 1 sq.m. beds - 1 l.
  6. To destroy the onion fly, the soil around the turnips is sprayed with a salt solution. To prepare the mixture in a bucket of water, I dissolve 200 g of table salt. The treatment is carried out upon reaching a height of 5 cm. Subsequent sprayings are carried out at intervals of 3 weeks.

If these funds are ineffective in the fight against numerous insects, onions are sprayed with chemicals. A good result is shown by the drug Proclaim, SPINTOR, Decis, Bi-58, Tabazol, Metaphos.

Regardless of the type of insect that attacked onion plantings, it is recommended to use aggressive pesticides only in case of severe infection.

Both the first and second types of spraying are carried out in dry, calm weather in the afternoon. To achieve a positive effect, the treatment is carried out periodically.

As you can see, the variety of onion pests is quite large. Having found at least one insect on the plants, you must immediately begin measures to destroy it. If you do not react in time, harmless, at first glance, bugs will eat the entire onion in a matter of days. To reduce the risk of collision with voracious insects, it is recommended to carry out preventive measures, which consist of following the rules of crop rotation, preparing the soil and seeds.

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